Inflammatory pathways
Research describes several mechanisms through which azelaic acid may influence inflammatory processes in the skin.
Ingredient Guide · Evidence Reviewed
Azelaic
Acid.
10%
A multi-action skincare ingredient with decades of dermatological research behind it.
Our formulation uses 10% micronized azelaic acid. This guide looks beyond our formula to explain what scientific research tells us about the ingredient itself.
01 · The Ingredient
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that has been extensively investigated in dermatology and skincare.
Research has examined its activity across several biological processes in the skin, including inflammation, microbial activity, keratinization and pigmentation.
It is available in different topical concentrations and formulation types. The concentration and vehicle used in a particular study matter when interpreting the evidence.
02 · How It Works
One ingredient.
Multiple pathways.
Microbial activity
Azelaic acid has demonstrated antimicrobial activity and has been studied extensively in acne-related applications.
Keratinization
Azelaic acid can influence abnormal keratinization, one of the processes relevant to the formation of clogged pores.
Pigmentation
Azelaic acid can inhibit tyrosinase activity and has been investigated in conditions involving excess or uneven pigmentation.
03 · The Research
Where has azelaic acid been studied?
Azelaic acid has a long history in dermatological research. Importantly, much of the clinical evidence involves concentrations of 15% or 20%, rather than cosmetic 10% formulations.
Acne and blemish-prone skin
Clinical research has investigated azelaic acid in acne, including studies involving higher-strength medicinal formulations.
Rosacea
Fifteen-percent azelaic acid formulations have been evaluated in controlled clinical studies involving papulopustular rosacea.
Hyperpigmentation
Research has also investigated azelaic acid in pigmentation-related applications, including studies using 20% formulations.
Concentrations shown above refer to examples from published research and should not be interpreted as evidence that a different concentration or formulation will produce identical outcomes.
04 · Concentration
10%, 15% or 20%?
A percentage alone does not tell the entire formulation story. Concentration, vehicle and product design all matter when interpreting research or comparing products.
Commonly encountered in cosmetic skincare formulations. This is the concentration used in our formula.
A concentration used in certain medicinal formulations and clinical studies, including research involving rosacea.
A concentration with substantial historical clinical use and research, including studies involving acne and hyperpigmentation.
05 · Our Formula
Why we formulated
with 10%.
Our formula contains 10% micronized azelaic acid.
Rather than treating azelaic acid as an isolated ingredient, the formulation combines it with 3% niacinamide, a 1.5% ceramide complex, squalane, panthenol, allantoin and bisabolol.
The clinical evidence discussed on this page describes azelaic acid research generally. Results from studies using other concentrations or pharmaceutical formulations should not automatically be attributed to our 10% formulation.
Explore the complete formula →06 · Practical Guide
How to use
azelaic acid.
How azelaic acid is used depends on the concentration, formulation and individual skin tolerance. Published medical guidance for 15% formulations commonly describes application to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, but instructions for a specific cosmetic product should follow that product's directions.
Cleanse gently
Start with clean skin. Avoid aggressive cleansing or scrubbing, particularly if your skin is already sensitive.
Apply your treatment
Apply the product according to its directions. More product is not necessarily better.
Support the barrier
A moisturiser can be useful when dryness, tightness or irritation is a concern.
Protect in the daytime
Use broad-spectrum sun protection as part of a well-designed daytime skincare routine, particularly when pigmentation is a concern.
07 · Building a Routine
What can you use
with azelaic acid?
Complementary
Niacinamide
There is no general evidence-based rule requiring azelaic acid and niacinamide to be separated. Our own formulation contains both 10% azelaic acid and 3% niacinamide.
Supportive
Moisturiser + Ceramides
Moisturising can help support skin comfort when using topical treatments. Our formula includes a ceramide complex alongside other skin-conditioning ingredients.
Tolerance matters
Retinoids
Rather than treating this as a universal forbidden combination, consider the irritation potential of the complete routine. Introduce or combine active products cautiously if your skin is sensitive.
Tolerance matters
AHAs + BHAs
Using several exfoliating or potentially irritating products in the same routine may be too much for some skin. Frequency and individual tolerance matter.
Routine dependent
Vitamin C
There is no universal rule that everyone must separate vitamin C and azelaic acid. Product formulation and individual tolerance should guide the routine.
Daytime essential
Sunscreen
Daily broad-spectrum sun protection is an important part of skincare, particularly when managing visible pigmentation or sensitive skin.
Compatibility does not guarantee that every combination will suit every person's skin. When introducing several active products, individual tolerance and the complete routine matter.
08 · Tolerability
What might
you feel?
What can azelaic acid feel like?
Topical azelaic acid can cause temporary stinging, burning, tingling, itching, dryness or irritation in some people. Tolerability varies with the formulation, concentration and individual skin.
Evidence context
Published adverse-effect rates from medicinal 15% formulations should not be assumed to represent the tolerability profile of our 10% cosmetic formulation.
09 · Frequently Asked Questions
Azelaic acid,
answered.
01What is azelaic acid?+
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid used in dermatology and skincare. Research has investigated its effects on inflammation, microbial activity, keratinization and pigmentation-related pathways.
02What percentage of azelaic acid should I use?+
There is no single percentage that is best for everyone. Cosmetic products commonly include lower concentrations, while much of the published clinical research involves 15% and 20% medicinal formulations. Concentration, formulation and individual tolerance all matter.
03Can I use azelaic acid every day?+
Daily use is common with topical azelaic acid, but frequency should follow the directions for the particular product and your skin's tolerance.
04Can I use azelaic acid in the morning?+
Azelaic acid is used in both morning and evening regimens. Daytime skincare should also include appropriate sun protection.
05Can I use azelaic acid with niacinamide?+
There is no general evidence-based rule requiring the two ingredients to be separated. Our formulation contains 10% azelaic acid together with 3% niacinamide.
06Can I use azelaic acid with a retinoid?+
They are not universally considered an incompatible combination, but both may form part of active skincare routines and individual tolerance matters. A simpler or alternating routine may be more comfortable for sensitive skin.
07Does azelaic acid cause tingling?+
Stinging, burning, tingling, itching and dryness have been reported with topical azelaic acid formulations. The experience varies between people and products.
08How long does azelaic acid take to work?+
There is no scientifically responsible universal timeframe for every azelaic acid product. Clinical studies have evaluated different concentrations, formulations, conditions and treatment periods, so results from those studies should not automatically be applied to a 10% cosmetic formulation.
References
Research behind this guide.
1
The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action, preparations, and potential therapeutic applications
↗2Advances in Dermatology and Allergology · 2023
Azelaic acid 15% gel in the treatment of papulopustular rosacea
↗3Archives of Dermatology · 2003
Azelaic acid 20% cream in the treatment of acne
↗Clinical study · 2007
This page is provided for educational purposes and does not replace professional medical advice. Research relating to an ingredient should not be interpreted as clinical evidence for every product containing that ingredient.